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      <title>PJ Fashion Week</title>
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      <copyright>Copyright 2006</copyright>
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         <title>Is Fashion Week Still Relevant? Or Rather, Does Anyone Care?</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Fashion week is over, brain has suffered roundly from the experience, and rebooting is a bitch. But since I promise to deliver some Plato with my Prada I think it is time to get conceptual!</p>

<p>In all of my musings I have been wondering why it is that fashion week is important? Why do we care? Nominally we must care because we as consumers and aficionados of fashion look forward to the release of new design. And yet when one works in an artistic and hence emotionally driven medium it is rare that one can really pinpoint that arrival of the new. So what did I learn about the new this fashion week?</p>

<p>To Quote Shirley Bassey singing for Propellerheads:</p>

<blockquote>They say the next big thing is here, that the revolution is near, but to me it seems quite clear that it is all just a bit of history repeating. There is fashion, there is fad, and the joke is rather sad that it is all just a little bit of history repeating.</blockquote>

<p>Herbert Blumer proposed in the sixties a general theory of fashion that focused fashion as a process of historical continuity. New fashions are also in relation to others-one being built on top of one another. Fashion thus is always about modernity in that it is of the times...</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/is_fashion_week_still_relevant.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2006 17:28:12 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Politics of Style: Qaddafi vs. Karzai</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Now, I am a fan of interesting headwear, as well as a fan of capes. I find the latter romantic and the former something very few can carry, but when they can...oh my, how they can (particularly simultaneously)! When I was a teenager and university student, I used to enjoy watching Moammar Qaddafi on the nightly news, largely because of his outfits, many of which involved flamboyant capes and ornate headwear. But, as I grew to understand his politics, I became <strong>disgusted</strong>. Something about the whole terrorist/maniac, hate-filled, murdering tyrant thing turned me off. His look became, in my eyes, garish and over the top. I thought I would never love ornamental capes and robes and chic headwear (at least on men), ever again.</p>

<p>And I didn't...until 2002, when I first laid eyes on Hamid Karzai, then interim leader of Afghanistan. I was taken with his charm and bravery, and smitten with his style. And I was not alone. He won praise from the House of Gucci for his green and white chapan -- a traditional Uzbek cape -- and ceremonial karakul hat. Karzai himself said, back then: "Everyone I meet asks me about my coats...When I addressed the UN Security Council, all the ambassadors wanted one."</p>

<p>He's already rescued the ladies (with help from the U.S. military) from having to wear burqas: Can a more <strong>free and chic</strong> Afghanistan remain only a dream?</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/politics_of_style_qaddafi_vs_k.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2006 15:13:57 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Allah Save the Queen!</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Long-time readers will remember that in an earlier post, I noted that when Freddy Mercury sings <a href="http://www.blingdomofgod.com/bismillah.php">"Bismillah"</a> in the Queen anthem Bohemian Rhapsody, he is singing a phrase from the Quran--"In the name of Allah."  This phrase is ubiquitous in Islamic jewelry, art and, of course, religious rhetoric. </p>

<p><a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/entertainment/3593532.stm">As this article recounts</a>, Queen bootlegs were popular for years in Iran, and the government eventually relented and allowed a cassette of Queen's Greatest Hits to go legit.  And how could religious leaders justify this?  By providing an explicitly Islamic message to Bohemian Rhapsody.  The Iranian cassette includes a pamphlet with liner notes that  </p>

<blockquote>tells Queen fans that Bohemian Rhapsody is about a young man who has accidentally killed someone and, like Faust, sold his soul to the devil.

<p>On the night before his execution he calls God in Arabic, "Bismillah", and so regains his soul from Satan.</blockquote></p>

<p>So you see, it's a hymn!</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/allah_save_the_queen.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2006 14:49:05 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>The Real Value of Couture</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>In my opinion, anyone manufacturing apparel no matter how mundane, should be grateful and thank (insert your deity of preference) for the exclusive and even sometimes whacko couturiers. In my opinion, the press and consumer interest they generate amounts to the closest thing to an industry marketing group as we're ever likely to get. I don't even think that the controversy they generate is necessarily bad (just spell my name right); if it weren't for couturiers, I think consumers would have given up on fashion long ago. Couturiers are the closest thing to a "Got Milk?" campaign as we're ever going to get and it doesn't cost us a dime.</p>

<p>In fact, one of the greatest benefits that the sometimes strange couturiers generate is maintaining perceived value -the retail price levels of apparel. As the haute designers charge ever more obscene prices, it makes our prices seem much more reasonable in comparison....</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/the_real_value_of_couture.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2006 14:44:56 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>The Work of Fashion in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Has last season's new minimalism already given way to the new maximalism?  <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/glogin?URI=http://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/08/fashion/shows/08FASH2.html&OQ=_rQ3D2Q26orefQ3Dlogin&OP=23c834d8Q2F)vAQ5E)FOzoTOO2J)JQ3AQ3AE)Q3AJ)Q3Ay)Q7DQ3CoQ51-OQ7B)oQ51Ovo)Q3AyQ3DcjkJQ5BQ512g8">Some critics</a> observing New York Fashion Week think so.  But perhaps there's more than a mindless swing of the fashion pendulum going on here. </p>

<p>The presence of passementerie and paillettes at the fall collections this week may be more indicative of a need to distinguish ever-more-expensive designer items from fast fashion knockoffs at H&M, Zara, and the like...  </p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/the_work_of_fashion_in_the_age.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2006 14:36:25 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Marc Jacobs 2006</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Some shows are just so beautiful it literally hurts. </p>

<p>This show captures everything I love about design. </p>

<p>Color, volume, texture, layering, mixing divergent references and best of all the collection always looks even better in the store than is does in runway photos. </p>

<p>Marc Jacobs has earned every bit of respect he has garnered in his career, and he still relatively young. So what has to happen for us to begin considering that he just may be the most important designer America has ever produced? </p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/marc_jacobs_2006.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2006 18:59:17 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Fashionistas vs. Civilians</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>After reading a <a href="http://hotbisexualmodel.blogspot.com/2006/02/last-night.html">particular</a> post from the <a href="http://hotbisexualmodel.blogspot.com">Fashion Addict Diary</a>, the Fashionable Kiffen is taking a break from the scheduled fashion week programming to discuss the difference between fashion industry people and "civilians". Now, avid fashionistas sometimes wear things that are viewed as slightly ridiculous by the rest of the population. Platform pumps, ultra wide belts, and bubble skirts are just a few of the current array of items that immediately signal the wearer as an avid follower of fashion.</p>

<p>Generally, the most avant garde pieces seem eccentric to all but the most fashion forward among us, so what's a girl to do? Tame your look to appeal to the masses? Move to NYC or Tokyo, where no one will bat an eye? Or just accept the confusion of the civilians as part and parcel of being the most fabulous one in the room?</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/fashionistas_vs_civilians.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2006 18:20:33 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Vivisection: Project Runway</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>In real life, jerks aren't successful. Nobody wants to work for a jerk. If you're a jerk, you're going to have problems that more socially astute people will never have. You've created unnecessary barriers for yourself. This business is not the exclusive domain of hoity-toity design school graduates. Rather, the latter are the exception, not the rule. And again, fashion is not survival of the fittest <em>one</em>. There is lots of room in this business for talent and brains wherever you're coming from. Successful companies are constituted of talented, hard working teams who are led by team oriented leadership. Success doesn't mean mandating that your underlings comply with your slightest whims; there is no royalty here. Anyone can make it in this business. The messages propagated by Project Runway are unmitigated fiction that insults the commitment of people who've made this their chosen vocation. It is insulting to have one's career summarized by such a caricature.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/vivisection_project_runway.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2006 18:03:06 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Heatherette</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Never in my life have a seen a party that was more packed with people, more sexually charged, and more over the top than the Heatherette after party. I still don’t know exactly how to describe it between the dancing drag queens, the girls on swings, the balloons filled with cash, the celebrities, the fashionistas, the downtown hip kids, and of course loads of alcohol and drugs.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/heatherette.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2006 10:41:43 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>The Fresh Prince of Darkness</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Look at this lengthy article in the <a href="http://www.newyorkmetro.com/fashion/06/spring/15746/index.html">New York Magazine</a>, which the Manolo has annotated below for your edification. It is like the horrifying, surreal, opera buffo stage version of the Paradise Lost.</p>

<p><i>Act One, Scene One</i>. The curtain it raises on the procession of the damned, who shuffle across the stage paying obsequious homage to the Lord of Flies.</p>

<p>First, the aged crones in thrall to evil..</p>

<blockquote>What can one talk about while waiting for Lagerfeld? Lagerfeld, of course. “Karl has the energy of . . . what? Twenty-five thousand Turkish elephants!” says socialite Anne Slater, wearing her big blue glasses and grinning up a storm. “He’s magnetic and powerful. I think he’s absolutely, devastatingly attractive.”</blockquote>

<p>Then, the young slatterns, proud of their debasement…</p>

<blockquote>“Karl is a genius!” exclaims <a href="http://shoeblogs.com/wordpress/2006/01/05/854/">Lindsay Lohan</a>.</blockquote>

<p>Next, the handmaidens of Asmodeus, eager to share their shame..</p>

<blockquote>“Karl is the one person that makes me shy,” says throaty Bungalow 8 owner Amy Sacco.</blockquote>

<p>Then, the greater demons, <a href="http://shoeblogs.com/wordpress/2005/05/03/nosferatu/">odious, cloven hooved beings</a> who dwell in the lower rings of Hell…</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/the_fresh_prince_of_darkness.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2006 10:24:55 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Fashion Tribes Interview: eBay Style Director Constance White</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>%%video=c_white01_high.mov%%</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/fashion_tribes_interview_ebay.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 07 Feb 2006 14:38:11 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Still One Click Behind</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>There are many reasons to be interested in fashion, issues that I have enumerated time and time again here on this blog. But I feel like a broken record every time I say it because I am just on repeat and it isn’t getting us anywhere. But I am coming to the conclusion that Fashionweek is not one of the reasons to be interested in fashion...</p>

<p>I want people to hear my experiences if only to disabuse them of the notion that getting into the tents will be a magical experience. The only reason it seems exciting is because it is exclusive. You want access because you can’t have it. I don’t even have particularly good access, just a badge that gets me in the door. I can fight my way into many shows but too often the attitude has been we will just watch it from the monitor. To which I say no dice.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/still_one_click_behind.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 07 Feb 2006 09:53:47 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Yesterday, Fashion Week Made Me Sick</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Yesterday, I did walk by in the late afternoon. It wasn't raining, but there was a cruel, cold wind. Surrounding the enormous white tent were only ancient trees, bare cobblestones, empty benches and bistro tables, all blasted by the pitiless gale...</p>

<p>I began to have the fancy of the tent as a shifting distending entity, distorted by the shapes of elbows and heads pressing against its straining seams, like a thousand Alices had eaten their cakes and were sprouting ever-longer limbs. I waited for a giantess' foot or a seven-foot nose to tear through one of the walls, but it never did. This flight of imagination should have been my first clue. The wicked west wind carried some feverish spore or beastie deep into my lungs, and today I have an unsettled cranium and a painful wheeze like a fourteen year-old model before her morning's first cigar.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/yesterday_fashion_week_made_me.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 07 Feb 2006 09:37:59 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>From Air Kisses to Double Clicks</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Ten years ago, the internet was still a relatively new phenomenon.  And the venerable house of Chanel was not pleased when photographs from its collections appeared online immediately after the shows, enabling copyists around the globe to deliver those styles to stores even before the real merchandise was available.  Before the Fall 1996 collection, audience members received the following warning (in hard copy, of course):</p>

<blockquote>Unless duly authorized, any use, directly or indirectly, through any intermediate or not, with or without charge, in any part of the world, <i>specifically on the Internet</i>, on CD-ROM and on any other multimedia networks and devices, of any images of all or any part of the collection presented in this show, including any images of the models appearing in this show, is strictly prohibited. </blockquote> 

<p>Not satisfied with mere legal warnings, Karl Lagerfeld deluged the audience with so many looks and silhouettes that knockoff artists couldn't select an iconic image from the collection.  The next season, the designer received boos from photographers when he sent his looks for Chloe down a maze-like, difficult to shoot runway. <br />
</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/from_air_kisses_to_double_clic.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 07 Feb 2006 09:17:10 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Does Fashion Blogging Suck?</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>This is what <a href="http://almostgirl.coffeespoons.org/?p=575">Julie</a> is wondering today.</p>

<p>And a <a href="http://jackandhill.typepad.com/jack_and_hill_a_beauty_bl/2006/02/liveblogging_fa.html#comments">Jack & Hill</a> reader writes in: "Call me cranky, but with the except of Manolo, most of The PM fashion bloggers have no clue about what they're looking at. They're very busy writing about how they're perceived, who've they've seen or met or waved to, the spectacle of the tents and not very much about the collections. I think the MSM fashion media is pretty safe from the blogger onslaught. "</p>

<p>Oh, it's not as bad as all that, is it?  Here <a href="http://omiru.com/">Omiru</a> is busy telling us what's coming down the runway. And <a href="http://fashionablekiffen.blogspot.com/2006/02/fashion-week-day-three-its-all-about.html">The Fashionable Kiffen</a> has some trend analysis (keyword: volume).</p>

<p><a href="http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com">The Sartorialist</a> has the best candid backstage images around.</p>

<p><a href="http://missmeghan.blogspot.com/2006_02_05_missmeghan_archive.html#113918123116461440">Miss Meghan</a> has abandoned the shows in favor of a tour of boutiques in Manhattan's meatpacking district, where the real celebrity/editor action is, while <a href="http://andreatung.blogspot.com/2006/02/new-york-crafty.html">Andrea Tung</a> takes you on a knitting-shop tour of the island.</p>

<p>A Dress A Day breaths a sigh of "finally, something I really like" <a href="http://www.dressaday.com/2006/02/ny-fashion-week-y-kei-fall-2006.html">here</a>.</p>

<p><a href="http://judgey-judgey.blogspot.com/2006/02/nyc-2006-fall-fasion-week-faves-by.html">Tribunal of Good Taste</a> has posted a series of fashion polls.</p>

<p>If you want to put your own two cents in, <a href="http://blogs.glam.com/forum/6">Glam.com</a> has just now put up a public discussion forum dedicated to the shows.</p>

<p>Oh yes--and check back here tomorrow, when we'll have video blogging courtesy of <a href="http://www.fashiontribes.com">Fashion Tribes</a>.</p>

<p>And just remember, if it didn't suck just a little, it wouldn't really be blogging...</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://blogs.pajamasmedia.com/fashion_week/2006/02/does_fashion_blogging_suck.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2006 12:15:41 -0800</pubDate>
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